Remember Goliad!
On a rainy Tuesday morning, we headed to Goliad, Texas for a bowl of soup. Normally, it would take a decadent chocolate dessert to lure us on to a slick highway for a two-and-a-half hour trek, but the Blue Quail Deli’s cream of jalapeno soup had too many rave reviews to ignore. Rumor has it that ex-Oiler coach, Bum Phillips, may have retired in the Goliad area to place himself as close as possible to his next bowl.
After our own personal taste test, we can see ourselves packing to move to as well, but soup is only one of the reasons.
Goliad itself could be addictive. The courthouse square is large and green and dotted with old oaks. Streets wide enough to host a cattle drive, surround the old building.
Residents and business owners seem to love gardening; everywhere we looked flowers bloomed in vivid shades.
Sidewalks are lined with interesting displays.
We were anxious to explore, but our priorities were straight. We parked in front of the Blue Quail and went inside.
The place has lots of character and a friendly staff. Even preparing a glass of ice tea can make you smile. We just loved the ice machine.
We ordered a combo so we could sample their chicken salad sandwich. We didn’t know until the first bite that they bake their own bread. The chicken salad is very good; the whole wheat bread is amazing; and the cream of jalapeno is as good as Texas Monthly said it would be.
We took tiny tastes, thinking that the individual flavors would be evident. We hoped by the end of meal, we would have discovered their recipe. We could taste the jalapeno – spicy and minced jalapenos that settled to the bottom of the Styrofoam cup. We could taste the cream too, but whatever else was inside that bowl remains their secret.
In this town of less than two thousand residents, we counted five restaurants on the town square. One had a chicken gizzard special running. Another called the “Hanging Tree” looked like a great place for a steak on Saturday night. They serve until 10 pm, a rarity in such a small town.
The town’s antique store played loud sixties music. We sang as we shopped.
Texiana Furniture turned out to be a surprising art gallery with made-in-the-USA artisan goods. From unique glass sculptures to handmade furniture to one-of-a-kind dolls, it’s a place you don’t want to miss.
The dolls were made in New England.
Tia’s On The Square, a gift shop with a great street presence, made a particularly good impression.
Their beautifully displayed wares included the latest in the line of Le Crueset cookware, Virgins, Saints and Angels jewelry from San Miguel de Allende, and imported linens.
Through a back window, you could view a lush, hidden garden.
We didn’t leave Goliad without a visit to the Presidio la Bahia.
On March 27, 1836, Santa Anna ordered James Fannin and 350 of his men put to death here. The cry of ‘Remember the Alamo. Remember La Bahia’ was heard on the battlefield at San Jacinto.
The Presidio is now owned and operated by the Catholic Diocese. We arrived on a slow day and wandered by ourselves through the old structure. If we had arrived one day later, hundreds of San Antonio school children would have toured along with us. It’s one of the areas favorite field trips.
The chapel where Fannin’s men were held captive before their execution, still hosts a weekly mass.
It seemed fitting that our visit came on a gloomy day.
The Presidio has a hotel of sorts. You can rent a suite there and have the place all to yourself for a night. After touring, we aren’t sure that being in this dark, stone structure (alone) all night long, is something we’d enjoy. If you have a sense of adventure, and if you plan to totally ignore all the tales about what happens there after the sun goes down, then click here and reserve your room. They even have pictures.
When we next visit Goliad, we will email the owner of Tia’s On The Square. She operates a darling 1854 vintage bed and breakfast hotel, The Market Street Retreat. It’s a four-room inn with an outdoor kitchen and rock cellar, located just off the square, near the town’s museum.
In addition to all the yellow roses, the inn has a courtyard garden.
We feel fortunate that the town has so much to offer. Since we have yet to duplicate that soup recipe, we are already planning another Goliad excursion.
Hope we see you there!